How to wash and look after vintage clothes

Vintage clothes have already lasted decades, and with a little care they'll last a good few more. Most of it is common sense: be gentle, keep the heat down and give things room to breathe.

Washing

If there's a care label, follow it. If there isn't, start gentle and work up:

• Cotton and linen are usually happy in the machine on a cool, gentle wash. Turn them inside out to protect prints.
• Wool and knitwear are best hand-washed in cool water with a wool wash. Don't rub or wring: squeeze gently.
• Silk can be hand-washed in cool water with a mild detergent, but anything structured or lined is safer with a dry cleaner.
• Synthetics from the 60s and 70s are often tough, but keep the temperature low so they don't lose their shape.

Not sure if a colour will run? Dab a damp white cloth on an inside seam. If colour comes off, wash it on its own, by hand.

Drying

Skip the tumble dryer. Heat shrinks wool, weakens old elastic and can melt some older synthetics. Hang woven pieces on a padded hanger to dry, and lay knits flat on a towel so they don't stretch out of shape.

Ironing and steaming

A steamer is kinder than an iron for most vintage, especially anything with texture. If you do iron, go cool, iron on the inside, and put a cloth between the iron and anything delicate.

Storing

Hang jackets, coats and dresses on wide hangers that support the shoulders. Fold heavy knits rather than hanging them, or they'll stretch. Keep things out of bright sunlight, which fades colour faster than you'd think, and avoid plastic covers: fabric needs to breathe. A cotton bag or an old pillowcase is better.

Keeping moths away

Moths love wool, cashmere and silk, especially when it's been worn and not washed. Put things away clean, give your wardrobe a shake-out every few weeks, and use cedar blocks or lavender bags. If you spot a moth, wash or freeze the piece (sealed in a bag, for a couple of days) to deal with any eggs.

Accessories

Wipe leather bags and belts with a soft dry cloth and feed them with a leather balm now and then. Store bags stuffed with tissue so they hold their shape. Keep costume jewellery dry and away from perfume, which can dull the finish.

Look after it, and one day someone else might be finding it on a rail and wondering where it's been.