What to check before you buy a vintage piece

Part of the fun of vintage is that every piece has a past. Most of the time that past just means character. Sometimes it means a weak seam or a zip that's on its way out. A couple of minutes of checking before you pay tells you which.

Hold it up to the light

Light through the fabric shows thin patches and tiny holes that are hard to see on the hanger. Pay attention to elbows, knees, the seat of trousers and anywhere that rubs.

Look at the underarms and collar

These are the places clothes wear first. Check for discolouring under the arms, a worn edge on the collar and fraying at the cuffs. Light marks can often be washed out. Yellowing on white fabric is much harder.

Test the seams

Give the main seams a gentle pull: down the sides, at the shoulders and round the armholes. If you can see the thread stretching or gaps opening up, it will need stitching. That's a quick fix, but it's good to know before you wear it to a party.

Try the fastenings

Do the zip up and down a few times. Old metal zips are sturdy, but a missing tooth or a loose pull means it may need replacing. Check that every button is there and sewn on firmly, and that hooks and poppers still close.

Check the fabric label

If there's a care or fabric label, read it. Wool, cotton, linen and silk tend to age well. Some older synthetics can be delicate, and anything with "dry clean only" will cost a bit more to look after. No label at all is normal for older or homemade pieces.

Give it a sniff

Honestly. A slightly musty smell usually washes or airs out. A strong damp smell can mean mildew, which is harder to shift.

What's easy to fix, and what isn't

Easy: a dropped hem, a loose button, a small split seam, a bit of bobbling on a knit (a fabric shaver sorts it in minutes).

Worth thinking about: moth holes in knitwear, splits in the fabric itself rather than the seam, and stains on delicate fabric.

None of this should put you off. A tiny flaw is often why a beautiful piece has lasted fifty years: it was worn and loved. If you're not sure about something on our rails, just ask us, and we'll tell you what we know about it.